Adding a Stair Handrail
With a 3-year-old and an infant in the house, we knew we needed a sturdy handrail to keep our little ones safe. If you’re in the same boat and looking to add some extra security to your stairs, I’ve got you covered. Here’s a simple, step-by-step guide on how to create a safe and stylish handrail that’ll make your home more secure for everyone—especially the kiddos!
Tools
Materials
**Full list of tools and materials, linked here
Step 1
Mark the Studs and Locate each Bracket
Prior to using a stud finder, I placed tape every 16 inches on center along the wall to estimate the stud locations. Then, I removed painters tape at locations where I would not place the stair handrail bracket.
Step 2
Measure the Handrail Height
Measure and mark the standard handrail height at 34-38 inches from the stair treads nose. I chose to position mine at 36 inches on center.
Note: Point A and Point B are most important and Point B may vary.
Step 3
Confirm Studs at Each Bracket Location
Decide where you want each bracket and remove the tape from any studs you won’t be using. Drill a small pilot hole to confirm the stud’s location. You’ll know you’ve hit a stud if you feel significant resistance on the drill bit once you’ve passed through the drywall. Coordinate this hole with the hole for your bracket—mine was 2 inches below my 36-inch marking. This ensures your handrail is supported by a wood stud rather than just drywall.
Step 4
Install the Brackets
Screw in each of the brackets using a cordless drill, but don’t fully tighten them yet—you’ll need to rotate them slightly when attaching the handrail.
Step 5
Cut and Prepare the Handrail
Bring in your red oak handrail and rest it on the front of the stair treads. Mark the point where the rail contacts the top stair nosing—this will be Point A, your first cut.
Set your power miter saw to a 16-degree angle and cut the rail at Point A.
Repeat this for Point B.
Step 6
Notch the Back of the Handrail for the Bracket
I traced the bracket onto the back of the railing and used a Multi-Tool to remove a small section from the back of the handrail to allow the bracket to sit flush (this step may vary depending on your bracket style).
Tip: I made a rookie mistake—I rushed and didn’t pre-drill, and the wood split. Learn from me and always pre-drill! It prevents splitting, makes driving screws easier, and ensures a stronger hold.
Step 7
Test Fit
Before final installation, place the handrail onto the brackets to ensure a proper fit. Then, pre-drill small holes at each screw location on both the brackets and the railing (a step I should have done). Also, measure to ensure the railing is approximately 1.5″ from the wall. Align it with your brackets, making sure the gap remains consistent and the railing runs perfectly parallel to the wall. Make sure to do this before the next step of finishing the handrail.
Step 8
Sand and Finish the Handrail
Sand the handrail smooth using a sanding sponge, then wipe off any dust with a damp rag. Apply Danish Oil for a rich, durable finish, letting it soak in for about 15-20 minutes before wiping off the excess for a smooth, professional look. I applied three coats for added depth and protection.
Step 9
Prep the Wall
Before installing your handrail, sand and spackle any pilot holes or imperfections in the drywall, then apply touch-up paint if needed for a clean finish.
Step 10
Final Install
Place the handrail onto the brackets to ensure a proper fit, pre-drill small holes at each screw location, and confirm the railing maintains a consistent gap, mine was a gap of 1 1/2″ running perfectly parallel. Once everything is aligned, securely fasten the handrail to the brackets for a polished, professional installation.
Final Thoughts
Honestly, this project was way easier than I expected, and it made such a difference. Not only does the handrail add safety, but it also gives the space a more finished, custom look. And the best part? It only took me about 10 hours total—just a few hours a day over three days.
A couple of things I learned along the way: Measure twice, cut once (seriously, don’t rush it), and always pre-drill before screwing into wood or drywall—it’ll save you from splitting the wood and a whole lot of frustration. Taking a little extra time to get things lined up right makes all the difference.
If you’ve been thinking about doing this, go for it! It’s totally doable, and you’ll love the end result. Stay tuned for the full video tutorial, and if you give it a shot, let me know how it goes!
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